Wednesday, November 27, 2019

Reims & Epernay, France (with a little Paris in there)

Today was the day we got out of the city a little bit. Jon picked up our rental car which was walkable from where we were staying, we loaded in, and drove about 1.5 hours to Reims, France. Here, we were meeting our very good friends and their two kids who live in Germany. We met at the old cathedral in town and hung out in the gorgeous weather while the kids played tag. The two girls hadn't seen each other since they were 2.5 and they got along as well as ever!



The Reims Cathedral started construction in the 13th century. It is a pretty impressive structure and dominates the street it resides on. We gazed at the exterior for a bit before corralling everyone inside.  where a quiet and peaceful atmosphere awaited us. Most people were walking around looking at the statues and old and new stained glass windows, others were lighting candles, and some having a silent prayer.










After our visit there, we walked to a lunch spot that had room for all eight of us. Drinks and yummy French food was needed!




We then drove to Epernay where we had reservations at Champagne Mercier for 4pm. Unfortunately, the typical 25 minute drive from Reims took 45 minutes due to construction on the main road in, making us a little late. Our friends ended up taking a wrong turn and were 45 minutes late. Nonetheless, Mercier tried their best to wait as long as they could for them before they finally had to start since we were holding up other people. Just as that happened they walked in! Serious props to Mercier.. despite the extraordinary lateness they were very accommodating and nice about the whole thing.

We booked this tour with the kids because it seemed very kid friendly. The tour through the cellars was on a train, the elevator down to the cellar had glass windows that lit up with stars and videos, and the tour came with a headset that the kids were excited to listen to. It was interesting for all of us!

The last (and best) part of the tour was, of course the tasting. We tasted three champagnes, all which were very good. We bought six bottles to take back to the states with us.

This huge barrel holds 200,000 bottles of champagne!


On the train






We left Epernay and drove towards Paris. We had made reservations at a restaurant just outside of Paris where our friends were staying. Did you know that when you order a hamburger or cheeseburger in Paris that it doesn't come with a bun? Yeah, me either. That's probably because when you go to Paris you're not ordering hamburgers, haha. But J loves them and they happen to be on a lot of menus so here we are. The kids were so well behaved and the adults got to enjoy the meal!

We drove into Paris and made a last minute decision to go back to the Eiffel Tower since it was dark and we had never seen it shine before. We also didn't think we would get back there at night the next night (which we did). Lastly, it was about 9:50 when we got there and we'd get to witness the hourly sparkle show! We got an awesome parking spot and only had to step a few feet from the car to see the spectacle. This was one of the highlights for me this Paris trip. I had never seen it at night before, nor had I seen the sparkle show. It was truly beautiful and the kids LOVED it!


Sparkle show!

The Louve on the drive back
Next up, another day in Paris!


Thursday, November 21, 2019

Paris, France, Part I


We arrived in Paris around 7:45pm and made our way over to the taxi line. However, we were quickly pulled out by someone who worked there and they moved us to the front! Thank you J and M. That would never happen in the U.S.! We then checked into our large two bedroom hotel suite and ordered some food to be delivered since it was getting to be that time when no one really wanted to go out again.

First thing on the agenda the next morning was to find a place with some chocolate croissants and hot chocolate for breakfast. Not too hard to do while in Paris. We walked to ___ which was just voted #1 something something. Next door we went to a cute little restaurant where we got some hot chocolate and a Croque Monsiuer (ham and cheese with a fried egg) to split. We ate up everything and the girls were happy!




Walking the streets
Maddie contemplating life over a hot chocolate



We then took the metro to Montpanarsee Tower, which is the tallest building in Paris at 59 stories. The tower has an observation deck and is touted as having one of the best views of Paris, namely because the Eiffel Tower is also in the shot which you don’t always get. We enjoyed the views inside for a while and then walked up the stairs to the observation deck. It was windy and a little chilly, but wow! What amazing views we had!










We then took the metro to the something stop for the Eiffel Tower. We already had plans to go here on Saturday, but I think all of us were itching at the chance to visit before then. A lot has changed since we visited 8 years ago! For one, in order to get up close to it you have to go through security (a bag check and metal detector). We previously were able to just wander at our leisure. Another thing that was different was that they had closed off the entire grass area leading up to the tower. When we went, people were having picnics and nice pictures taken so it was kind of a disappointment to see so many restrictions. But obviously if that’s what they feel they need to do to keep everyone safe then I’m all for it. The girls really enjoyed looking at the Eiffel Tower… it’s something that J had expressed interest in seeing and it’s pretty cool that our two year old kept saying, “Look, Eiffel Tower!”













We found a small creperie on a quiet street nearby and relaxed for a bit. Jon and I were in desperate need of an adult drink and the girls were looking forward to having some chocolate crepes and sitting down to play.


Send help!



Everyone was tired and done so we Ubered back to the hotel and rested for a bit. We went out to a restaurant nearby around 8pm and enjoyed some authentic French cuisine. The waiter even brought a huge sparkly candle out for J’s birthday which was happening the next week.


All in all, this was a great first full day in Paris! Next up, champagne country!

Wednesday, November 20, 2019

London, England, Part I


This November we took our family travels across the pond to London and Paris. I’ve said this before in an old post about Rome, but there’s something special about going back to a city for a second or third time and not feeling like you need to see all the sights. It’s a chance to really experience a city and not feel like you’re rushing around trying to get everything in because who knows when (or if) you’ll come back. Maybe you take in some classic sights, but you see them in a different way. It’s a lot calmer, relaxed, and in my opinion, more enjoyable.

Thus, these were great across the ocean cities to introduce to our children since Jon and I have been to them 1-2 times. Not only that, but the ONLY day flight from the U.S. to Europe is to London – my kids are pretty sleep regimented and there’s no way they would fall asleep on an overnight flight. It also helped us NOT transition them over completely to London time since we were only there for a week. We all eventually transitioned about 2-3 hours, which ended up being perfect. Another pro for London is that my cousins, Denise and Dave, with their three kids live in London and they put us up for three nights. Thanks for saving us $2,000! The first week in November is also the perfect time to travel – in New Jersey it’s teacher’s convention week and our schools only have two ½ days that week. The fares are so much cheaper and there are way less tourists.

We left from JFK airport and settled in for the relatively short 5 hour 45 minute flight. The kids were great – honestly, they zoned out to their tablets and our phones or I-pads most of the time. Occasionally they would play with stickers or read their books, but a long flight is no time to regulate screen time. You do what you need to do to survive!



Our cousins live in the area of St. John’s Wood in a fabulously huge house with many floors. Dave, Sophie, and Sam had mint tea waiting for us and we caught up and let the kids run around.

We all woke up around 9:30am and had a leisurely morning. We took a nice walk to Little Venice where we caught the 12:15 waterbus to Camden Market. The 50 minute ride was nice and it wasn’t cold at all. The kids got a little restless, but overall were pretty good. I didn’t realize the waterbus lets you off right in the middle of the market… it was a little chaotic! It took us a moment to figure out where we wanted to go and what we wanted to do, but we just started walking around admiring all of the different shops. We did some shopping - not as much as we wanted since I felt like if our eyes weren’t on the girls at every second then we would lose them in the maze of paths and stores. We ate lunch outside, right next to the Amy Winehouse statue that for some reason Julia kept groping when taking a picture.















Later that night we were treated to a fantastic meal at Duke of York near Denise and Dave’s house. Fish and chips for the win!

Abbey Road is just down the road from their house so we couldn’t pass up an opportunity to create the iconic shot. Plus, we had two Abbey Road pros with us watching out for traffic and taking pictures. We went at a great time (it was about 9pm) when it wasn’t crowded and full of tourists and traffic.







The next day we took the tube’s Jubilee line to the London Bridge stop and walked to the Tower Bridge, passing the Shard on the way. Jon and I had been to the Tower of London before, but never went to the top of the bridge. It was empty, which made it so much more enjoyable. The kids loved the clear glass atop the tower, allowing them to see the buses, cars, and water beneath them.


The Shard outside the tube










Great arts and crafts kids area

We walked back to the tube and got off at the Waterloo stop. We had fast pass tickets to the London Eye, but first we needed to find some grub! Our cousins recommended Waga Mama, which is a fantastic Japanese restaurant with some delicious ramen, udon noodles, dumplings, etc. It was very kid friendly; they had an extensive kids menu, crayons, things to color on, kids chopsticks, and loud acoustics inside. The kids loved their dumplings and udon noodles, and Jon and I both got a spicy beef ramen dish that was amazing!




We headed over to the Eye and were able to walk right up with our fast passes, though because it was the off season we didn’t need to spend the extra money. But you never know and I really didn’t want to wait in line with the kids and be bound to a time. Our pod only had four other people in it so it wasn’t too crowded at all. It takes about 30 minutes for the pod to go around once. The views were great.. we had fairly clear skies and could see for miles and miles! We had a great view of Big Ben (which unfortunately had a bunch of scaffolding on it), which J had been wanting to see. M had a little meltdown when we wouldn’t let her lean on the only door that said “Do Not Lean”, but it didn’t last too long.











After we spent a meal’s worth of money on our Eye family photo, we took the girls to the Jubilee playground nearby. This is a cute and unique playground. We loved the different climbing logs, nets, and other equipment that we don’t usually get in US playgrounds.







Moving onwards, we walked over Westminster bridge with an ice cream cone, ice cream cup, a hot mulled wine, and a spiced apple cider. There was actually no complaining on this walk since J very much wanted to see Big Ben. And she loved the view of the Eye from across the way. We made the decision to keep walking (instead of taking the tube) to Buckingham Palace. On the way J became excessively interested in the red phone booths and had to go in each one.





We walked along the edge of St. James Park as the sun was setting, about three quarters of a mile from Parliament. We watched the guards briefly, took some pictures, and then walked through the park to get to the Green Park station in order to take the tube back. Forgetting that it was around 5pm on a Monday, we squeezed into one of the cars, stroller and all, and went the 3-4 stops to St. John’s Wood.





That night my cousins’ kids (or first cousin’s once removed if you want to get technical), Sophie and Sam, offered to watch the girls so the adults could go out to dinner. They took us to their favorite fish and chips place; a truly authentic local experience!




One of the things that J wanted to do while in London was ride a double decker bus. So the next morning after we packed some things up we caught the 139 bus around the corner and went for a ride. This route takes you through Picadilly Circus and Trafalgar Square and is a great route to take to see some lovely parts of the city. About halfway through we were able to snag the most coveted seats on the bus, the ones in the front row on the second floor. Both girls loved this ride and I’m so glad we were able to do it! We got off at the South Hampstead stop in Covent Garden and walked to Dishoom, an Indian restaurant highly recommended by Denise and Dave. They met us there for lunch and we ordered a smattering of dishes, each one better than the next. Truly great Indian food!

Waiting at the bus stop







Funny sign






We tubed it back to St. John’s Wood and went back to the house to finish packing our things. I wish I could say we traveled light for this trip, but we did not. We lugged a ridiculously large pack and play (not your standard size, but much bigger) with us, plus two large suitcases – one filled with clothes and one filled with gear like travel blackout curtains, sound machines, small blankets, some diapers, and other things that hopefully we can weed out over the next few years. Plus, a backpack each and the airplane snack bag I had over-packed. Oh yeah, and the travel stroller…

The New Yorkers turned Londonites sent us off in a cab and off we went to San Pancras Station. This whole process was fairly easy, except for all of our stuff and two young kids. I had chosen our seats when I purchased the tickets, so we were able to sit in a foursome with a table between us. I always love the ease of traveling via train in Europe. Everything about it is so different than in the US… I wish our country would get with the times!





We had such an amazing time in London and I wish we had more. Next up, Paris!